May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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London: Marios Schwab has shown his collection in London since 2006, finding a place as one of the most consistently avant-garde talents of the week while satisfying more mass market needs via his new position as designer at Halston. Creating conceptual work is risky these days, and in recent seasons his London presentations have been uneven, if artful. S/S 11 brought the excitement back, as Schwab collected a new set of outré inspirations, a unique mix of sweet lingerie and female bikers – a bad girl trying to fly straight. These disparate ideas merged into a wonderfully individual look centered on cosmetic pinks etched with lace and foreboding tattoo graphics, rich caramel leathers contrasted with a glaring aqua, and body-conscious yet forgiving silhouettes. Accessories were subtle but tough; high heeled, slingback clogs, slim clutches and leather harnesses were all right on trend, while the Joan Jett-via- Kristen Stewart hair was a bit over the top. Those who’ve been looking for Schwab’s return to a strong message will be more than satisfied by his efforts this season.
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