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Marios Schwab

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BAVARIAN BOUDOIR
London: After experimenting with distorting and dissecting the female figure last season, Marios Schwab returned to a more worshipful stance for fall, creating sexy, body-conscious clothes that showed why he is a natural fit as the new designer for Halston. In addition to going back to his aesthetic roots, the designer also chose to honor his half-Austrian heritage. Using the traditional dirndl shape as a starting point, Schwab crafted sexy fit-and-flare frocks with corseted bodices. The décolletage remained a focal point throughout the collection, with deep square necklines showing up on plush fur coats and bustier tops, and sinuous panels of fabric framing the bust on cropped jackets. Meanwhile, suspender skirts and cropped pants drew inspiration from the other folkloric costume identified with the region — lederhosen — and ornate upholstered brocades and lavish embroideries paid homage to local handicrafts. Although many of the historical and cultural references in the collection were immediately identifiable, the label’s trademark sex appeal kept the looks thoroughly grounded in the present.
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