May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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NEW YORK NOIR
Relocating her show from London to New York, Maria Grachvogel’s serious spring collection settled over Manhattan’s Altman Building like a misty night fog. With their somber expressions, heavy brows and deep red pouts, the models resembled Hitchcock heroines for a new age. Jackets and blouses were cut into rounded shapes and armholes draped into cowls that wrapped around the body like a cocoon. Floor-length gowns and pantsuits with strong shoulders and flaring hemlines recalled another iconic screen siren, Joan Crawford. In a palette of caviar, charcoal, slate and tan with bursts of colorful irises and flashes of red, the collection was uncomplicated and sophisticated, showing the mark of a mature designer who knows how to make flattering clothes for grown-up women.
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