Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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London: The newly renovated splendor of London’s Savoy Hotel ballroom provided a fitting backdrop to Maria Grachvogel’s ultra-luxurious collection. Ethereal, earthy, and abstract, the designer reflected both the natural and fantastical through a prism of Art Deco glamour. A plethora of bias cut silk gowns with gently twisted and draped backs were loose on top and snug around the legs, while the aptly named “magic cut pants” featured a flattering sari style drape of fabric that swept down and around one leg. The daywear was just as cinematic with masculine wool trousers, slim catsuits and heavy black lace ensembles that owed more than a nod to sepia-tinted photographs of Coco Chanel braving the breezy decks at Biarritz. Individually engineered prints complemented the generally relaxed silhouettes while referencing dark fairy tales, bones and enchanted forests. This season also saw the launch of “Erickson Beamon for Maria Grachvogel”; the collaboration with the jewelry label resulted in sculptural pieces featuring monochrome Perspex, tusks and knotted silver chains. A small collection of handbags in softly pleated and draped matte snakeskin was also introduced.
Color: Steel / Bone / Charcoal / Ebony / Blush / Buttermilk / Shots of Orange, Amethyst and Sapphire.
Key Items: Printed wool trousers / Bias cut gowns / Masculine blouses with balloon sleeves / Oversize coats
Materials: Silk georgette / Silk crepe / Lace / Cashmere tweed / Lightweight wools
Print + Pattern: Multiple abstract prints designed to fit individual garments / Dark tribal and Brothers Grimm imagery executed with a painterly hand
Details + Trim: Heavy lace / Exposed backs / Twisted straps / Shearing trim / Oversize collars
Accessories + Footwear: Snakeskin clutches in a palette of Black, Gray and Damson / Large pleated triangular tote with knot detail / Oversize cocktail earrings, Necklaces, Collars, Cuffs and Deco cufflinks of marbled stone, opaque Gray crystals and oxidized Silver.
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