May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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RANDOMNESS VS. CONTROL
Milan: The randomness of nature versus the precision of geometry seemed to be an idea behind Marco de Vincenzo’s fall collection. The prints in the show were based on marble, with all its haphazard colorations, but the other patterns, which were pieced onto the clothing or punched into the cloqué fabrics, represented concentric diamond shapes and controlled zig-zags. Even knits often featured ribbing that formed a chevron pattern. Several coats combined the two aspects, using a zig-zagged jacquard for the outside and a marble motif for the lining. The clothes themselves were classically appealing; full pleated skirts, body-skimming dresses, turtlenecks, and elegant coatdresses were among the key items on display. Furs also played a important role. Having worked for Fendi in the past, de Vincenzo knows a thing or two about the material. He used curly, shaved, and shaggy furs, piecing them together for outstanding coats. The show ended with a range of iridescent knit separates with the earlier chevron-patterned ribbing. It seems geometry beat nature in the end. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Fit-and-flare / A-line / Trumpet / Hourglass
Color: Concrete grey / Lime / Burgundy / Black / Warm beige / Cream / Olive / Navy / Silver
Key Items: Full, pleated skirt / Chevron ribbed sweaters / Pieced fur coats / Marble-printed dresses
Materials: Felted wool / Printed silks / Iridescent yarns / Lurex yarns / Fine-gauge wool yarns / Shaved, curly, and shaggy furs / Geometric-patterned cloqué / Zig-zag patterned wool / Slick leather
Print + Pattern: Marble motifs / Zig-zag patterns
Details + Trim: Accordion pleats / Turtlenecks / Piecing / Cutouts at the collar / Attached capes
Accessories + Footwear: Booties / Round-toe pumps
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