May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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THE HEMLINE RISES
New York: Marchesa is a line built upon layers of embellishment, with entire collections predicated on couture-level detailing. With the red carpet firmly in mind, designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig continued that tradition for fall by working with lace embroidery and frothy accumulations of chiffon and floral beadwork. Innocent a-line dresses with cap sleeves achieved an almost gladiatorial look rendered in gold and white brocade, while laser-cut black leather was an unexpectedly edgy turn. F/W 12’s new customers will flock to fitted wool styles with tonal patterns or slouchy evening coats emblazoned with birds. Although Chapman and Craig included more short hemlines than usual, fans of classic Marchesa will still be satisfied by liquid satin hourglass columns or the plethora of wide princess skirts. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slim / Hourglass / A-line / Fit and flare
Color: Ivory / Gold / Black / Pastel blue / Turquoise / Scarlet
Key Items: Lace cocktail dresses / Tulle gowns / Caped sheath dresses / Fitted wool dresses / Embroidered bodice gowns
Materials: Lace / Chiffon / Silk / Tulle / Velvet / Brocade / Wool / Laser-cut leather
Print + Pattern: Bird prints / Florals
Details + Trim: Gathering / Peaked shoulders / Layering / Embroidery / Ruffles / Capes / Cutouts
Accessories + Footwear: Cutout leather boots / Bangle bracelets / Cutout pumps
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