May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: An eighteenth-century portrait by Francisco de Goya of the Spanish aristocrat, Maria Teresa de Vallabriga, provided an appropriately luxurious and romantic inspiration for the latest Marchesa collection. Designers Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman used elegant poet sleeves, piles of Duchesse satin, and ornate embroidery to reference the era and the famous painting. Marchesa is one of the few labels that has remained untouched by the pervasive minimalist trend, and their commitment to unabashed ostentation is actually quite refreshing. Though the design duo has played with daytime pieces in seasons past, they went back to their roots in eveningwear this season, and it was obvious that it is the medium in which they feel most comfortable. Their gowns are known for being favored by Hollywood’s elite, and their current offering is full of showstoppers that could easily translate to the red carpet. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Hourglass / Mermaid / Volume at hips / Asymmetrical
Color: Lipstick red / Crimson / Burgundy / Ivory / Gold / Black / Blush / Silver / Regal purple / Magenta
Key Items: Embroadered mermaid gowns / Peplum jackets / Poet-sleeved sheer button-ups / Cropped wide-leg pants
Materials: Duchesse satin / Organza / Lustrous silks / Tulle / Taffeta / Chiffon
Print + Pattern: Tapestry florals / Gold filigree
Details + Trim: Gathering and draping / Ornate embroidery / Beading / Poet sleeves / Peplums / Asymmetrical hemlines / Tiers
Accessories + Footwear: Embellished minaudieres / Ankle-strap sandals / Ankle-strap pumps / Lace-up open-toed boots
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