May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: India has already arrived as an inspiration this season with Vera Wang’s subtle distillation of her recent travels, and Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig have also found their muse in Mumbai. But where Wang synthesized, Marchesa embraced, creating metallic gathered sari gowns, fitted bodice tulle wraps and intricately beaded tunics. Many of these very literal looks worked best in solid tones of teal or plum embellished with restrained beaded gold trim, while delicate dove grey lace spun around the body had a sensual peek-a-boo appeal. Surprisingly, S/S 13’s fringed cocktail dresses and short, swingy shapes were more interesting than the stiff ballgowns that closed the show, demonstrating a wider range for this often ceremonial label.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Skinny / A-line swing / Off-the-shoulder / Halter / Fitted bodice
Color: Lemon / White / Cream / Champagne gold / Peach / Apricot / Tangerine / Rose / Cherry red / Black / Cranberry / Plum / Teal / Silvery grey
Key Items: Cropped slim trousers / Long sleeved tunic dresses / Fringed cocktail dresses / Gathered and draped gowns
Materials: Patterned satin / Tulle / Silk fringe / Transparent netting / Delicate lace
Print + Pattern: Baroque swirls / Traditional Indian repeats / Florals
Details + Trim: Gold embroidery / Jeweled beading / Cap sleeves / Fringe / Ruffles / Fishtail hems / Gathering
Accessories + Footwear: Pointy slippers / Beaded sandals / Beaded swing earrings / Beaded evening bags
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