Marc Jacobs show triumph rounds off New York Fashion Week in style

The New York shows ended Thursday with a bang as Marc Jacobs confounded his detractors and showed a collection that looked like he’d poured all the creativity he used to spread across his own two labels and Louis Vuitton into it.

Until recently, some had said he was spreading himself too thin. But, like Michael Kors a day earlier, a heavy dose of concentration on the main line for which people judge him certainly worked wonders.

“Jacobs may just have given us what we never knew we wanted,” said Style.com while WWD said it was “remarkable” and “fabulous”.

What were they cooing over?

A collection that left behind the military looks of last season (and that many other labels are still playing with) in favour of what Jacobs called “military precision”, or everything just-so.

There was certainly something for everyone in skin-tight sheath dresses, capes, slim short belted coats atop full pleated skirts, tailored suits that were far from classic, pantsuits, knits, furs and enough print and pattern to keep your print department inspired for a complete season.

It was all inspired by legendary editor Diana Vreeland and the gently retro feel had echoes of her mid-century heyday. But it wasn’t a revival.

And the collection was surprisingly versatile – those short check jackets with full sleeves will work just as well with jeans as the evening looks they were styled with on the Jacobs runway.

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