May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: Marc Jacobs orchestrated one of his most glamorous shows ever, lit with a huge sun that showered intense light on the models and created an ethereal ambiance. Jacobs was inspired by artist Olafur Eliasson’s The Weather Project at the Tate. At first the light reflected only the sparkle and shiny materials, the rest was black, gray and sepia; you couldn’t clearly identify the clothes–there was only a feeling of otherworldly grace—like a force of nature. Then the models came back for a second trip around the circular catwalk, fully lit up. This trip revealed classical, spare 50s shapes, combined with styles inspired by sleepwear, pajamas, robes and lingerie combined with Aran sweaters, Fair Isles and feminine, slightly oversized plush wool coats in soft blush colors. Jacobs returned to traditional luxurious qualities this season with alpacas, double-faced cashmere, silks and an abundance of fur–mink, fox and beaver, all in a flattering palette of blush, caramel, dusty pinks and blues, burgundy and greens. High-waisted panties replaced skirts and pants this season—it was all about legs at Jacobs. High-waisted shorts were styled with short, squared 50s jackets, all in brown tweeds. More wearable alternatives were elegant pencil skirts, fabulous robe-inspired coats and twinsets in alpaca and cashmere. At the end, bais-cut lamé dresses, silk gowns and pajamas were all covered in sequins, and there were sparkling coats with fur collars and lanky silk satin dresses styled with boleros in fox fur. Deep necklines, low backs and bare legs added to the sensual glamour. —Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Pyjama / Lean / 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s
Color: Teal green / Crimson / Bordeaux / Blush / Chocolate / Peach / Champagne / Bronze
Key Items: The Pajama: Pajama pant, pajama top, pajama jacket, pajama dress / Fur pencil skirt + top / The robe coat / Bias-cut long evening gowns / Cashmere knits / The high-waisted brief
Materials: Alpaca / Silk: crepe, georgette, tulle, or satin / Double-faced wool / Wool mohair / Mink / Fox fur / Cashmere knits / Lamé / Sparkly tweeds
Print + Pattern: Embroidered fishnet motif / Pajama foulards / Tiny checks
Details + Trim: Fur collars
Accessories + Footwear: Sharp, sexy pumps with ankle straps / Clutches / Fur boleros / Fur boas / Gloves
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