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Marc Jacobs

FACTORY GIRL
New York: After last season’s tribute to 70s excess, Marc Jacobs presented a more streamlined collection for spring that seemed to be contained within the rigid black-and-white stripes that streaked through the show. Jacobs lingered around the same time period, however, turning the clocks back a few years to the Mod scene of the 60s. The show was filled with fashion plates that conjured iconic images of the era, from the leggy looks of Edie Sedgwick in boxy beach tees to Peggy Moffitt’s modeling portfolio for Rudi Gernreich in, well, just about everything. In its more sophisticated moments, properly pressed and put-together suits recalled Edith Head’s costumes for Alfred Hitchcock’s films, although Jacobs’ versions offered a little bit of 21st-century subversion in belly-baring silhouettes. While, visually, the primary palette and linear motifs had the graphic starkness of F.C. Gundlach’s Op Art photographs, a closer inspection revealed intricately pieced fabrics and painstakingly placed embellishments – a contradiction that encapsulates Jacobs’ uncanny ability to bring new dimension to old ideas.—Nivara Xaykao

Silhouette: Columnar / Low-rise waist / A-line

Color: Black and white / Candy apple red / Chamois / Periwinkle / Chocolate / Dark mauve

Key Items: Hip-slung pencil skirt / Low-rise pleated skirt / Schoolboy blazer / Midriff tee / Matched topcoat / Sheath dress / Boxy beach tee / 60s maxi / Languid jumpsuit

Materials: Duchesse satin / Stiff leathers / Silk jersey / Washed silk

Print + Pattern: Chunky stripes (referee, jailhouse, candy) / Leopard spots / Degradé grid / Graphic basketweave

Details + Trim: Scallop hems / Car wash hems / Flounced collars / Keyhole cutouts / Contrast plackets / Wide white binding tape / Sequins

Accessories + Footwear: Beatle bootie / Pointy slingbacks / Structured satchel / Envelope clutch

View in RUNWAY: QUICKLOOK

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  • Sharon Graubard

    love all the references!

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