May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: Marc Jacobs has long marveled at the sartorial genius attributed to the various mythically eccentric women (fictional or not) acknowledged as landmarks along the fashion continuum. For this reason, it surprises few that the spirits of Lil’ Edie Beale, Maude (sans Harold), Miss Havisham, and even Cindy Sherman were all present and accounted for within his f/w 12 collection, an homage to those for whom too much is rarely enough. Bricolaged looks piled jackets above dresses, over pants, under outsized pieced-fur hats, all teetering precariously atop heeled pilgrim loafers (Kawakubo would certainly approve). Not “minimal”, and refreshingly void of “bling”, this presentation worked to claim new space in the increasingly homogenous style-scape, while staying true to Jacobs’ ongoing creative love affair with nostalgia and the inspirational potential of vintage fashion. -Kibwe Chase-Marshall
Silhouette: Stacked / Cocoon / Belted / Sloping / Wasp-waist
Color: Black / Charcoal / Aubergine / Forest / Currant / Taupe / Marigold / Avocado / Black / Mauve / Lime / Dove / Celadon / Lavender
Key Items: Dress-shaped coat / Narrow Cropped Pant / Fur-embellished sweater / Pinned shawl / Wasp-waist dress
Materials: Wool-Lurex lame / Leather / Wool crepe / Double-face cashmere coating / Boucle tweed
Print + Pattern: Paisley, Mirrored scroll / Wide stripe / Tiled medallion / Optic check / Psychedelic floral / Ditsy floral / Scaled blocks
Details + Trim: Mosaic stitching / Out-sized buttons / Hologram applique / Self-fabric fringe / Fox fur pocket-bag / Leather insets / Fur binding
Accessories + Footwear: Rhinestone-buckle pilgrim loafer / Pop-color Satchel / Outsized pieced-fur hat / Fingerless arm-warmers / Fine-gauge socks
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