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Marc Jacobs

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STUDIO 54 VIXENS

New York: Having referenced the 1970s with his masterful F/W 10 collection last season, Marc Jacobs returned to the decade for his current show, imagining it in a completely different light. Where last season was subdued and restrained, this season was exuberant, vibrant and playful. The most obvious difference was the palette: the cool taupes and greys morphed into hot pink, bright orange and rich purple. Wide-leg pants worn with a long belted jacket – both made from glossy satin – looked like they could have walked directly out of Studio 54, and kitschy geometric prints used for a bell-sleeved coat were both charming and fun. There were several nods to key designers of the decade – Missoni with zig-zag striped knits, YSL with billowing taffeta peasant blouses and full skirts, and Chanel with a gold-trimmed tweed pantsuit – but all captured Jacobs’ signature ironic-cool aesthetic. Ultra-wide-brimmed hats, feather neckpieces and floral appliqués, along with frizzed manes (a lá Sonia Rykiel) lent a zany, Zandra Rhodes-esque glamour to the looks, and added to the upbeat vibe of the collection.

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