Marc Jacobs


New York: In this Lady Gaga era of fashion, designers seem to be clamoring to see who can be the most outrageous, but sometimes the most daring thing to do is to keep it simple. After several seasons of experimental collections that were inspiring but sometimes unwearable, Marc Jacobs sent out a parade of intensely desirable clothes for real women, which felt just as stimulating as any of his more over-the-top shows. Set to various versions of “Over the Rainbow”, the presentation had a tender, wistful quality, and while the approachable aesthetic could be misread as a grab for cash in this tough economy, the clothes were far more than just basics. Jacobs played with proportion this season, sending out oversized A-line skirts and boxy jackets in addition to covetable separates with Jacobs’ special touch. A culotte suit in nubby taupe tweed was a highlight – twisted strips of fabric decorated the double-breasted jacket, and the culotte style felt fresh. Wide-leg trousers and Fair Isle sweaters looked meant to be lived in. Even the more glamorous looks had a down-to-earth quality. Bespectacled girls in luscious furs felt more like a quirky Gwyneth Paltrow in The Royal Tenenbaums than fussy princesses, and floor-length gowns in heather jersey will be a perfect evening alternative for the anti-starlet. These clothes beg to be inhabited, neither overwhelming nor boring, and the collection was one of Marc Jacobs’ best.

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