Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Over the past several years, New York has looked to Marc Jacobs for a bellwether collection. He has never let us down, and this season is no exception. Packed with ruffles and girly pearls, his show seemed to reference the Japanese Lolita girls. Hints of Kabuki in the models’ whited-out faces and strong lips and eyes intensified the message. As incongruous as it may sound, traditional American sportswear influences also found their way into the collection with proper double-breasted blazers festooned with bursts of ruffles and a seemingly-prim heather grey knit dress slashed up the back to reveal the model’s underpinnings. Reminiscent of his S/S 08 collection, underwear as outerwear was an important theme. Satin bras topped sweaters; waistbands on pants and skirts rolled down to reveal hosiery, and a bustier was cinched over a blazer. Hemlines dropped below the knee, with a few billowing skirts grazing the ankle. Luscious brocades, kooky lamés and sparkly chiffons were luxurious mediums for his story. The overall message seemed to be about kicking out the old staples of the New York wardrobe: black-on-black uniforms and dirty Lower East Side rock-and-roll seem clunky and tired next to this whirlwind of flounces, incongruous influences and off-the-wall styling.
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