Marc By Marc Jacobs axed as Marc Jacobs gets focused

Designer Marc Jacobs has confirmed that diffusion line Marc by Marc Jacobs is to be integrated into the mainline business and the future of the Marc by Marc Jacobs stores and staff are all under review.

Marc Jacobs, which is majority owned by LVMH, aims to integrate some of the diffusion line’s approach and price points into mainline broadening its appeal.

The designer told Womenswear Daily “I want to make incredible fashion. I want to figure out a way to make that incredible fashion available to people on different levels . It just feels like we aren’t doing that job by showing two different collections with two different messages.”

Marc by Marc Jacobs was headed up by Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley as creative director and women’s designer, respectively.

Jacobs added: “We’ve gone through many different ways of looking at what it was initially and how it had gotten away from that, and I think again we’re back to that same thing. The way to do it is that this is under one label.”

The axing of the second line follows Robert Duffy, Marc Jacobs’ business partner, stepping away from the day to day running of the business and Sebastian Suhl taking over as CEO last autumn.

Marc by Marc Jacobs is said to be a significant contributor to turnover reportedly making up almost 50%. CEO Suhl told Womenswear Daily that there is a big opportunity for the new single label business at the “core price range” of Marc by Marc and also a lot of scope in the space where Marc by Marc prices finished before entry prices to mainline started.

Marc Jacobs will expand its design team to reflect the needs of an extended mainline. It is understood that Hillier is likely
to stay on. It is unclear whether Bartley will remain.

The brand has a big focus on retail with a major store redesign in the offing. Marc Jacobs and Marc By Marc Jacobs has 200 stores and CEO Suhl is looking at which will stay and which will go in the restructure.

He told WWD that he likes the concept of multiple stores, particular in New York’s West Village, and considers Bookmarc a concept that can be expanded.

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