Marc by Marc Jacobs

New York: After last season’s homage to 80s club kids, for F/W 13 Marc Jacobs rewound the clock, mining the 40s for his younger Marc by Marc line. There was touch of Amelia Earhart in the full-hipped pegged pants, neat shirts and military touches. The androgynous glamour of Katharine Hepburn was evident in the high-waist slacks, pussy-bow blouses and the models’ frizzy finger waves and morale-boosting red lips. Jacobs usually piles his youthful charge with socks, studs, hats and bangles galore, but this season he matched the austerity of wartime, bringing the attention away from the styling and back to the clothes, accessorizing minimally with streamlined platform pumps, a watch here and there and some purposeful, structured hat bags and purses. The designer likes to play with naïve geometric patterns for his diffusion range, which he included here, along with vintage leaf prints on turtleneck dresses and silk pajamas, adding a signature splash of color and fun to an otherwise rather grown-up collection. — Natalie Shukur

Silhouette: 40s / Pegged / Military / Belted / Tailored

Color: Black / White / Wine / Toffee / Eggplant / Charcoal / Navy / Cornflower blue / Royal blue / Emerald green / Tomato red / Rust / Teal / Oxblood / Cranberry

Key Items: Printed pajamas / Pinafore dresses / Pinstripe and check shirts / Military coats / High-waist pencil skirts / Loose pegged pants / Turtlenecks / Pussy-bow blouses / Skirt suits / Shift dresses / Tunics / Blazers / Opera coats / Funnel neck sweaters

Materials: Silk / Satin / Cotton poplin / Wool / Jersey / Faux fur / Rayon

Print + Pattern: Blanket checks / Madras checks / Plaid / Pinstripes / Geometric shapes / Chevron knits / Vintage leaf prints

Details + Trim: ¾ sleeves / Patch pockets / Military pockets / Brass buttons

Accessories + Footwear: High-vamp platform leather pumps / Box bags / Hat bags / Travel bags / Slim watches / Sunglasses / Skinny leather belts


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