Marc by Marc Jacobs

New York:
The S/S 12 Marc by Marc Jacobs collection confirmed that activewear influences are firmly entrenched on the runway for now, and the foreseeable future. Amidst a number of tailored cotton suits and blazers in high-visibility colors like safety orange and deep mint green, were a number of shorts, tennis jackets, duffel bags, collegiate-style ball caps, and — dare we say it — a plaid golfing visor. Madras shorts that could have been torn from the wardrobe department of Animal House or the pages Take Ivy were paired with a short-sleeve crewneck sweatshirt, white tennis sneakers, and the designer’s own take on Wayfarer-style sunglasses. Sporty touches even showed up on suits in the form of side-striped trousers that evoked tennis warm-up pants, while a Hawaiian-style shirt that bore a pattern of parrots looked quite comfortable next to tropical-print shorts. Suits and blazers were all three-button, with a high stance and trim construction that evoked the proportions of early 60s rock band style. All of this made for a festive, 60s fraternity, spring break feeling, that was unexpected but much appreciated. For a designer who enjoys toying with social stereotypes and pop culture as much as Mr. Jacobs does, no idea is ever out of the realm of possibility — but turning keg party classics like the aforementioned visor into runway-ready accoutrements stands as an admirable, if outré, accomplishment.   —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Trim collegiate

Color: Safety orange / Mint green / Khaki / Pumpkin / Olive / Racing red / Royal blue

Key Items: Short-sleeve crewneck sweatshirt / Madras shorts / Tennis jackets / Three-button suit coats and blazers / Tropical trunks / Hawaiian shirt

Materials: Chino / Madras / Calvary twill / Nylon

Print + Pattern: Parrot pattern / Tropical / Madras / Collegiate graphics

Details + Trim: Racing stripes on suit pants / High button stance on suit coats and blazers / Shoulder patches

Accessories + Footwear: Golfing visor / Chunky-soled penny loafers / University caps / Gym duffels  / Wayfarer-style sunglasses / White sneakers

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