Maison Martin Margiela

Paris: After last season’s study of androgyny, MMM focused on the dress for Fall. Most hovered below the knee and almost all consisted of various layers that unzipped or unbuttoned to reveal what was underneath. Leather shells opened up to expose sequined floral prints, and 1960s Dior style coatdresses hid patent leather dresses underneath. This “two for one” dress bonanza inevitably added bulk to the silhouette, but then the Margiela woman has never been one to dress for men. For all the opening and closing of fastenings, there was remarkably little flesh on show; even models’ hands were covered by elbow-length gloves. Taken individually, many of the pieces were conservatively chic — Carla Bruni would not look amiss in one of the belted long-sleeved day dresses (considering she may not be wearing Dior for a while). A standout was a floor-length gown assembled from two rectangular organza panels, one plain and one decorated with flapper-inspired jet beading that reached the knee — twisted elegance at its best.

Color: Dusty pink / White / Camel / Black / Gray / Burgundy / Navy / Lavender / Green / Ivory

Key Items: Unzipped and unseamed Dresses / Twin sets / Floor-length skirts

Materials: Felted Wool / Cotton / Fur / Silk / Velvet

Print + Pattern
: Lace print / Antique floral print

Details + Trim: Undone seams / Pleating / Sequins

Accessories + Footwear
: Long zip-up leather gloves / High leather boots / Boots covered in nude mesh / Oversized clutches

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