Maison Martin Margiela

Paris: The House of Margiela showed their S/S 12 collection at an old movie house in the red light district of Paris’ 18th. After a short film by the Maison and Simon Eléphant, models walked onto the stage and into the audience wearing some of the most wearable clothes offered by the label in years. Transparency was the main theme, evidenced by suits with silk overlays, openwork sweaters and rolled pants with contrasting linings. A crisp black and white color palette was happily balanced with summer pastels and masculine neutrals. The use of classic menswear patterns was more subdued than in other collections over the last two weeks — a semi-sheer cotton sweater let a polka dot-printed shirt shine through, and a featherweight jacket had a visible plaid lining. Even though the house Margiela built never fits into a predictable mold, the unexpectedly realistic approach for next season will surely attract a whole new crop of fans.  —Michael Fisher

Color: Black / White / Pastel blue / Brick red / Olive / Khaki / Red / Yves Klein blue

Key Items: Transparent blazers / Openwork sweaters / Double-breasted jackets / Chinos / Raincoats and parkas / Classic woven shirts / Safari jackets / Scoop neck tees

Materials: Silk / Cotton poplin / Leather / Nylon / Linen

Details + Trim: Patterned linings on jackets and pants / One-button closures for double-breasted jackets / Pieced construction

Accessories + Footwear: Tortoiseshell sunglasses / Silk scarves / Laceless Oxfords and sneakers / Suede desert boots

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