Maison Martin Margiela – Haute Couture S/S 2013

Maison Margiela added some bracing Avant-garde to Couture week. The models strode down the runway shielded by masks decorated with tribal-esque beadwork and trims, leaving them as anonymous as the elusive founder of the house. The look was a futuristic take on flapper dresses. Trench coat styles, biker jackets and heavy zips were combined with silk and delicate beadwork, repurposing twenties evening dresses into something modern, edgy and elegant. The process involved restoring the original beadwork, then bonding it to various outerwear garments and adding heavy metallic zips. Art Deco influences continued with beaded sheaths styled with silk trousers and strapless floor length dresses in burnout velvets. The show started with a lineup of sleeveless blazers worn as dresses (one was decorated with whitewash brush strokes), with blown-up 70s shirt collars and large concealed snaps. A sublime long shirtdress followed, overlaid with delicate beadwork on black netting. Many pieces had the deliberately unfinished look that carries the Margiela signature – a kind of raw minimalism. There was also a nod towards Japanese traditional styles like the long beaded kimono waistcoat and an origami-inspired wrapped silk organza dress.  The last three looks were made from thousands of metallic candy wrappers embroidered onto pongee silk. The foil “fur” took 70 hours to make, not a lot measured by couture standards but eye-catching and fun. — Celia Ingesson

Silhouette: Columns / 20s flapper / Mini

Color: Nude / Jewel tones / White / Black

Key Items: Sleeveless Blazer / Strapless cocktail dresses/ Columnar / Floor-length dresses / Short wide pants

Materials:  Burnout silks/ Silk chiffon / Organza / Silk jacquards/Bonded outdoor fabrics

Print + Pattern: Tribal / Ornate Art Deco / Brushstrokes

Details + Trim: Colored beads and sequins / Feathers / Unfinished edges / Metallic candy wrapper

Accessories + Footwear: Face shields “masks” with tribal decor / Ankle high silver or white painted platform boots with heavy heel


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