May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: Since the departure of Mr. Margiela, the designers at the Maison have struggled to retain the house’s avant garde aesthetic. Their attempts have received mixed reviews and have disappointed some of Margiela’s devotees, but their Pre-Fall collection for a new line under the Maison Martin Margiela umbrella called “Premiere” offered a ray of hope. Wearable and appealing basics like trench coats and straight-leg pants were mixed with quirkier elements, including pieced blazers, cropped dimensional sweaters and fur accents. The palette was mostly composed of soft neutrals, but pops of vibrant red, hot pink and mulberry enlivened several of the looks. Though still not quite capturing the artist brilliance of the original Margiela, the current presentation demonstrated a tasteful new direction and is sure to interest long-time followers of the label.
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