Mar 27, 2019 | By Volker Ketteniss
Paris: The looks presented in Maison Martin Margiela’s first ever men’s runway show (which was contrived to give the audience the illusion of being backstage) managed to be wearable and commercial without abandoning the house’s notoriously forward aesthetic. The concepts for F/W 11 were strongly communicated and consistently present, including 1970s influences, outdoorsy camping styles and military inspirations. Elements like sleeping bag linings were both avant-garde and functional, and deep midnight blue worked surprisingly well as a neutral for a fur collar. Russet jewel tones and plush winter fabrics looked rich, while rugged footwear, utilitarian details and foul weather-friendly items kept ensembles casual.
Colors: Camel / Chestnut / Fatigue green / Midnight blue / Scarlet red / Burgundy / Eggplant / Slate gray / Indigo / Black
Key Items: Shearling jacket / Pieced fisherman sweater / Sleeping bag coat / Hybrid utility jacket / Turtleneck sweater / Double-breasted overcoat / Sporty cargo pant / Cropped stovepipe chino / Double-breasted suit / Blazer
Materials: Velvet / Shearling / Twill / Nylon / Marled sweater knits / Wool felt / Wool suitings
Details + Trim: Utility pockets / Insulated linings / Pieced constructions / Shawl collars / Patchwork / Leather banding and trims / Bonded fabrics / Zipper closures / Contrast facings / Fur collars and trims / Epaulets
Accessories + Footwear: Hybrid winter boots / Western-inspired belts / Galoshes / Equestrian boots
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