Feb 11, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
Based on the abstraction of a black and white photograph, the F/W 10 collection for Maison Martin Margiela showed a mix of graphic elements, a story told in shades of gray. The textural contrast between a shiny nappa leather shirt and grey flannel pants was echoed in a pieced jacket with wide lapels. A jacket was cut from grey wool flannel with a dégradé effect that suggested partially corroded metal, a nod to the current fascination with natural decay. Silhouettes were lean yet soft, especially successful in narrow trousers and some outstanding unconstructed jackets. With the mysterious and brilliant man behind the namesake label no longer at the helm, the design house managed to produce a slightly quirky reinterpretation of menswear classics, but without the artful avant-garde bite.
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