Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Under the helm of an anonymous design team after Martin Margiela announced his retirement last year, the renowned avant-garde label has been struggling to find its footing. Although the spring collection delivered no new message of the kind many look to Margiela for, it did touch on many of the major themes emerging this season and put a conceptual spin on them, for better or for worse. The collection was flanked by what seemed to be remnants of Viktor & Rolf’s famous bed collection, with sheet-like washed leather and button-up nightshirts swathing the body in messy waves and cinched with belts. The house also presented its own version of the linebacker dress in crumpled paper with heather grey jersey sleeves. Lingerie continued to trend, with pieces that ranged from the absurd — a mohair onesie with a diaper-draped crotch — to surprisingly wearable knit briefs and a jersey romper. Although gimmicky, a leather thigh-high boot/chaps/belt hybrid will surely become a staple in a some popstar’s wardrobe. In one of the more successful moments, a photograph of a tropical landscape was digitally transferred to fabric with torn pieces of the photo appliquéd on top, bringing the print to life. The collection was presented in basic neutrals and a bold choice of colors that most designers usually avoid — Incredible Hulk green, Pepto-Bismol pink and Post-it note blue. It will be interesting to see if those four little white stitches will be able retain their caché without their reclusive and brilliant originator behind them.
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