May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: Maison Martin Margiela has long been a fashion insider’s brand, but in recent years, with its mysterious namesake out of the picture, a signature fragrance, retail store openings from Miami to Munich and a collection in collaboration with H&M, the Belgian house has veered ever-closer to the mainstream. The F/W 13 collection, built on the fundamentals of tailoring, was testament to this shift with its use of bright color and easily digestible abstraction. Gorgeous flannel and pinstripe suiting—its Margiela-ness evident in dramatically oversized cuffs and paint-swipe stripes—opened the show, giving way to slightly more deconstructed, but no less wearable permutations from a crisp white shirt refashioned into a bustier top to a twisted, double-layered blazer. The collection ended on a set of more challenging, patched-together gowns emblazoned with subliminal slogans, but the real highlight (and a rather crafty element for a label with austerity at its core) were the delicate organza pieces embroidered with haphazard, multi-colored yarn.— Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Tailored / Layered / Deconstructed
Color: Black / White / Yellow / Tomato red / Lipstick red / Fuchsia / Navy / Cocoa / Cornflower blue / Petrol blue / Ochre / Pale gold / Blush pink
Key Items: Loose, pleat-front tailored pants / Suits / Waistcoats / Bomber jackets / Mini skirts / Fishnet cropped sweaters / Oxford shirts / Tailored coats / Deconstructed gowns
Materials: Flannel / Wool felt / Pinstripe wool / Cotton / PVC / Fur / Leather / Organza / Silk / Satin
Print + Pattern: Paint swipe stripes / Pinstripe / Stripes / Abstract patchwork knits / Graphic slogan prints / Color block
Details + Trim: Open, oversized cuffs / Tie necks / Wool embroidery / Contrast binding, seams & top stitching / Patchwork & color block / Unfinished threads
Accessories + Footwear: Leather almond-toe boots / Structured leather clutch bags
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