May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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SOFTNESS + SEVERITY
New York: The Maison Martin Margiela design team worked with the label’s characteristic severity for Pre-Fall, but tempered it with a range of softer elements. Angular jackets, spare tunics, and unadorned column dresses were among the collection’s building blocks. A palette of mostly cream, black, grey, and taupe supported the feeling of austerity. But the offering seemed to have a counterpoint, with tactile furs, sensuous knits, and jewel tones. The dichotomy was subtle, and it worked. Outerwear was a highlight, with curly fur coats and an oversized knit cardigan among the standouts. The designers also added fur panels to a classic motorcycle jacket, amping up its appeal. Though the looks may have lacked some of the edge and unpredictability they had when Margiela himself was still at the helm, the mix of softness and severity made for a desirable and diverse collection. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Cocoon / Long layers / Column / Hourglass / Oversized
Color: Cream / Black / White / Taupe / Slate / Cocoa / Cinnamon / Charcoal / Forest green / Aqua / Navy / Bottle green
Key Items: Motorcycle jacket with fur panels / Green curly fur coat / Oversized cardigan / Double-breasted pantsuit
Materials: Curly fur / Shaggy fur / Leather / Matte wool suitings / Fine-gauge jersey / Medium-gauge and chunky yarns / Fluid silks / Felted wool
Print + Pattern: Distorted Fair Isle
Details + Trim: Fur panels / Zip closures / Pleats / Gathering / Double collars / Double-breasted closures
Accessories + Footwear: Chunky metal and jewel rings / Oversized pendant necklaces / Snakeskin pouches / Textured wristlets / Flat ankle boots / Flat over-the-knee boots
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