Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Martin Margiela Couture Fall/Winter 2012


Paris: Every so often, there is speculation that the reclusive Monsieur Margiela has returned to his eponymous Maison. This season, the speculation was understandable. First, Raf Simons, his close friend, was seated in the front row. Also, some of his signature elements were present on the runway. Margiela was known to use vintage or repurposed materials to create his avant garde looks. This season, in a collection called “Artisanal,” vintage crystal doorknobs found in New York were used as closures for jackets and decorated the halter neckline of an elegant satin top that grazed the floor. A jacket made from baseball mitts recalled the pieces he made from vintage leather gloves. Face coverings, also a Margiela favorite, were studded with gems. Whether or not Margiela has actually returned (most likely not), the clothing captured his irreverent spirit. –Joanna Manganaro

Silhouette: Constructed hourglass / Tubular / Long + languid

Color: Black / Papaya / Golden brown / Bright red / Silver / White

Key Items: Raw-edged sleeveless jacket / Lace pants / Long silk halter top

Materials: Lace / Heavy cotton / Baseball gloves / Satin / Brocade / Nylon / Plastic

Details + Trim: Piecing / Doorknob closures and embellishments / Gem embellishments

Accessories + Footwear: Gem-encrusted face coverings / Chandelier necklace / Tabi boots


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