May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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SLOUCHING TOWARD SUITING
Paris: Sharp shoulders are a mainstay for Maison Martin Margiela, and the menswear themed F/W 12 collection featured plenty of them. From tuxedo jackets to camel overcoats, the boxy silhouette was modern and aggressive, rigorously appealing and identifiable as always. But soft balanced hard, and the presentation included roomy tunic dresses, fluid trousers and even a corduroy suit, relaxed items which complimented fitted funnel neck outerwear and a-line leather skirts. Evening looks moved into asymmetry and shiny textures, but an unexpected graphic buffalo check in polished PVC was more successful than off-kilter patchwork dresses. Separates seemed fresh as a nighttime option, particularly the finale ensembles, which inadvertently dovetailed with Angelina Jolie’s recent Oscar meme—floor-length skirts slit to the upper thigh.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Boxy / Fluid / Oversized / A-line
Color: White / Black / Camel / Dove grey / Poppy / Bronze / Fuchsia / Plum / Navy / Dusty lilac / Blush
Key Items: Tuxedo jackets / Relaxed satin pants / Shiny sheath dresses / Double breasted satin jackets / Floor-length coatdresses / Turtlenecks / Tunic dresses / Mid-calf leather skirts / Slouchy suiting / Crisp cotton blouses / Asymmetric dresses / Long skirts
Materials: Satin / Wool / Cashmere / Silk / Jersey / Velvet / Leather / Fur / Corduroy / PVC / Neoprene
Print + Pattern: Color-blocking / Abstract swirls / Checks
Details + Trim: Sharp shoulders / Boxy collars / Brass buttons / Funnel necks / Fur sleeves / Contrast piping / D-rings / Ribbing / Asymmetry / Zippers
Accessories + Footwear: Chunky pyrite pendants / Ankle boots / Briefcase bags / Simple shoulder bags / Leather totes / Slouchy gloves / Knotted leather belts / Pumps / Knee-high leather boots
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