Maison Martin Margiela

Paris: Pre-Fall meant outerwear for Maison Martin Margiela, specifically the type of coats and jackets which qualify as serious defense against the elements. Wool blankets and goose-stuffed duvets were draped and tailored around the body, wrapped to the neck with oversized folds and panels, or trailing behind with cape hems. The slouchy, relaxed fit extended into trousers and suiting as well, resulting in loose leather jumpsuits, felt tuxedo vests and boxy blazers. Dresses were mostly asymmetric, pleated and hung in cascades of silk from the bodice to the floor. Luxury was evident not only via Margiela’s usual experimental tailoring, but in the use of leather and fur; crocodile for caramel hued motorcycle jackets, raccoon for shaggy vests and coats. Both protective and avant-garde, the collection proved cozy and fashion forward aren’t mutually exclusive.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Relaxed / Layered / Slim / Draped / Oversized / Boxy

Color: Camel / Black / Cream / White / Sable / Cinnamon / Peach / Ice blue / Turquoise / Olive / Tangerine / Oxblood / Cherry red / Nude

Key Items: Relaxed trousers / Elongated blazers / Toggle coats / Trenches / Patterned sheath dresses / Oversize blanket coats / Silk blouses / Crocodile motorcycle jackets / Down blanket cape / Pencil skirts / Leather jumpsuits / Fur trimmed parkas / Blouson jackets / Draped tunic dresses / Fur vests

Materials: Leather / Fur / Silk / Cashmere / Satin / Stuffed goosedown / Cable knits / Felt / Chiffon

Print + Pattern: Snakeskin prints / Abstract splatter prints

Details + Trim: Wide draped collars / Toggle closures / Satin piping / Fur trim / Patch pockets / Zippers / Cowl necks / Sheer panels / Draping / Gathering

Accessories + Footwear: Flat leather boots / Thigh high leather boots / Stiletto boots / Leather gloves / Opaque hosiery / Folded clutches / Tote bags / T-strap pumps / Patent leather mary-janes

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