Maison Martin Margiela

On a runway beset with Persian carpets the Maison Martin Margiela designers showed a collection primarily concerned with the deconstruction and reconstruction of garments. Garments exist in a cultural and heavily gendered space, and thus this collection also offered commentary on gender, sexuality, and power. A satin slip dress bore no straps, forcing the model to hold it up, creating a shockingly venerable, feminine look that contrasted sharply with reconstructed trench coats that sported exaggerated shoulders that seemed to challenge and mock conventional modes of masculinity. A number of looks deconstructed men’s suiting, and typically masculine items like motorcycle jackets, while floral Farahan pattern dresses came encased in polyurethane storage bags that wrestled with notions of preservation, beauty, decay, and containment.  —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Flowing / Undone / Redone

Color: Nude / Silver / Persimmon / Taupe / Black / White / Navy

Key Items: Deconstructed motorcycle jacket / Reconstructed trench coat / Slip dress / Deconstructed men’s suiting / Smock tops

Materials: Leather / Satin / Stretch jersey / Clear polyurethane / Denim / Wool suiting / Netting

Print + Pattern: Farahan pattern

Details + Trim: Reconstructed shoulders / Decorative zippers / Velcro strips / Brass buttons / Ruffles

Accessories + Footwear: Ankle boots in translucent plastic, black, taupe, and red

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