Jan 10, 2017 | By Lourdes Linares
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While the dust may have settled over the major international Fashion Weeks, we turn our attention to some of the smaller cities. Today we look to the Madrid runway shows which delivered a number of denim heavy collections that showcased some directional indigo themes.
One of Madrid’s most recognised designers, Juanjo Oliva created a ladylike and formal dress sense for his S/S 14 collection. Strong, linear and exaggerated silhouettes brought an elegant aesthetic to his line with oversized buttons and workwear pocket detailing lending a retro feel. Raw denims added a polished and structured finish to key items like cinched mini dresses, cropped flares and bell shaped jackets.
After receiving the L’Oréal “Best Collection” award for her F/W 2013 line, Teresa Helbig created yet another great contemporary collection for S/S 14. The looks were ultra feminine and refined with a clinical edge. There was a mixture of minimal separates and ultra flow-y long line dresses. The clinical romper, basic tee and the two-piece bralette combo were the stand out pieces of the collection. Fabrics were glossy, unwashed and raw, which all added to the sophisticated touches in the line.
Madrid local Carlos Diaz took a ’90s approach for S/S 14 turning to the iconic acid smiley for print direction. The grinning face appeared as allover prints in varied scales across matched sets. Reworked monochrome palettes in gunmetal and saturated blacks were overlaid on oversized tees, slouchy pants and bomber jackets to create a contemporary streetwear edge.
Design duo María Rosendfelt and Jacobo Salvador looked to a clean and clinical aesthetic to showcase their selections of denims this season. Silhouettes balanced between the structured and unstructured with technical tailoring and concept cuts giving way to edgy shapes. Slouchy track pants and boxy board shorts channeled a urban ’90s theme (as seen on Kenzo and Marques Almeida runways) with perfectly frayed edges and synthetic indigo shades injecting texture and dimension.
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