May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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THE LIMIT OF EXCESS
London: F/W 12 was a study in excess for experimental designer Louise Gray. Never one to shy away from quirk, Gray let her eccentricities take a more aggressive leap this season with bold layers of graphic prints combined within each ensemble to form a new type of graffiti. Although the styling, as always, was decidedly wild with Mohawk hats and oversized earrings, somehow all the competing geometric lines and sequin embellishments worked. Keeping silhouettes simple and focusing on easy sheath dresses, brocade skirt suits and molded t-shirts, Gray let her patterns do the talking, matching stripes with tile repeats and barcodes with concentric circles. In fact, only one piece fell noticeably short, an ill-fitting silk jumpsuit embellished with clustered beads, which looked like a craft project gone wrong.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Relaxed / Lean / A-line / Boxy
Color: Black / White / Cherry red / Cobalt / Mint / Evergreen / Lemon / Turquoise / Fuchsia / Navy / Cranberry
Key Items: Printed sheath dresses / Patterned leggings / Cotton button-downs / Slim trousers / Boxy jackets / Patchwork overcoats / Knit tops / Brocade bubble skirts / Molded t-shirts / Sequined dresses
Materials: Brocade / Cotton / Cashmere / Silk / Satin / Chiffon / Leather / Jersey / Lurex
Print + Pattern: Graphic geometrics / Barcode prints / Graffiti prints / Fractals / Stripes / Circles
Details + Trim: Patchwork / Pleating / Sequins / Embroidery
Accessories + Footwear: Knee-high boots / Patterned clutches / Oversized clutches / Mohawk hats / Embellished hosiery
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