Louise Goldin


London: Louise Goldin’s starting point for the season was Pierre Cardin’s space age designs from the 60s, as well as traditional military garb. The collection threw Goldin into the group of young London designers who are fixated on the image of the sci-fi goddess/urban warrior, but Goldin differentiated herself from the pack by achieving the hard-edged shapes with engineered knits. The surprisingly firm knits were formed into dimensional peplums or pointed hips for skirts, and intricate trapunto-stitched pieces were molded to define the body beneath. Leather and bits of fur gave the looks an extra edge, and the mostly-black and deep blue palette enhanced the dark mood. Quilted leather or textured gold shoulder pieces evoked epaulets, and burnished gold leggings looked like ancient armor, both supporting the military theme. While Goldin’s space warrior looks may not be the most wearable, the young designer demonstrated her immense gift for knitwear and her cohesive vision. One can only hope she chooses to incorporate more earthbound pieces into her work in the future.

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