May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: Marc Jacobs isn’t one to make incremental variations on a theme over the course of seasons; each show is an entirely new experience, making his followers sit on the edge of their seats to see what he will come up with next. In stark contrast to the buxom 1950s-inspired looks of last season, Jacobs conjured a Marchesa Casati-like eccentric with a penchant for the exotic for S/S 11, complete with three taxidermied tigers and a black marble runway. A black satin cheongsam – dotted with clumps of beading and sexed up with a dramatically high slit – opened the show, followed by separates with an Asian look, featuring wide sleeves and Mandarin collars. Fringed flapper dresses positioned the viewer in the 1920s; one un-lined gold version allowed chic burgundy satin briefs to show through. Vivid floral prints, also in the Asian style, decorated calf-length skirts and dresses and added a surprise element to tailored pantsuit. After a few billowy YSL-inspired looks, Asia was given up for Africa for the show’s finale. Zebra, tiger and giraffe motifs appeared for suits, tops and wide-sleeved satin coats. With groups of models stalking down the runway wearing different colored variations of a single style, the show reveled in its own glamour and excess and came off as seductive and fun.
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