Apr 25, 2017 | By Sandy Chu
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New York: Francois Truffaut’s 1968 revenge film, The Bride Wore Black, provided the inspiration behind the Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall collection. Though 1960s influences carried over from last season, the mood was decidedly darker, in keeping with the film’s sinister premise. The models’ blunt bobs were lifted from Jeanne Moreau, the titular bride, and there was no shortage of black. Another element in heavy rotation was lace. In addition to appearing in its traditional form, its pattern was used for prints and jacquards, debossed onto silks, and incorporated into tweeds. It even served as the collection’s backdrop. The garments themselves were quite feminine, despite the dark references. Skirts were kicky and short, and jackets featured broad shoulders, making for a directional silhouette that was at once shrunken and oversized. Women’s design director Julie de Libran also included a handful of commercial looks, which mostly centered around outerwear. The best of the batch was a shearling jacket styled with a pair of patched cropped jeans. The look was a grounded, earthy alternative to the previous dark-and-lacy looks.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Shrunken / Extended shoulders / Straight and narrow / A-line / Tent / Hourglass
Color: Black / Lipstick red / Olive / Heather grey / Beige / Blush / White / Cobalt / Navy / Khaki / Dusty blue
Key Items: Broad-shouldered jackets / Pleated skirts / Long-sleeved lace print dress / Pieced jeans
Materials: Lace / Jacquard / Printed silks / Matte wool / Tweed / Slick leather / Bonded leather / Twill / Shearling / Shaggy fur
Print + Pattern: Lace / Stripes / Logo scarf motif / Leopard
Details + Trim: Sequins / Lace appliques / Pleats / Bias cuts / Extended shoulders / Contrast collars, trim, and lapels / Bow necklines / Double-breasted closures / Ostrich feathers
Accessories + Footwear: Cat-eye sunglasses / Jeweled tiaras / Deco jeweled chokers / Dangling earrings / Boxy top-handle logo bags / Polka dot tights / Pointy-toe pumps / Ankle-strap pumps / Over-the-knee boots / High-heeled ankle boots
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