Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: For F/W 12, it seemed that Marc Jacobs began a conversation in his namesake collection in New York that he completed at Louis Vuitton in Paris. On the Parisian agenda was a heavily vintage-inspired stacking of garments, which created a voluminous but simultaneously tailored effect. The pieces themselves felt reminiscent of the quirky late-60s-early-70s, with matched separates that conjured Spiegel-catalog leisure suits as well the chic Carnaby Street culture initiated by London’s legendary Biba boutique. In Jacobs’ hands these were elevated in fabric and amped in proportion. An amber palette embraced double-knits and leathers while groovy lilacs and inky navies popped up in upholstery-inspired patterns and tweeds. As he did in New York, Jacobs made a hat statement, this time trading the lofty feathers for artfully crushed felt numbers — imaginably stored for decades in the house’s iconic steamer trunks. –Kibwe Chase-Marshall
Silhouette: Stacked / A-line / Boxy / Lean / Narrow
Color: Camel / Malt / Pumpkin / Slate / Coffee bean / Scarlet / Purple / Lilac / Navy
Key Items: A-line coat / A-line midi-skirt / Cropped pant / Patterned leisure suit
Materials: Cashmere coating / Leather / Bonded lamé / Lurex woven tweed / Embroidered tweed / Leather / Wool felt
Print + Pattern: Harlequin upholstery print / Bordered blossom abstract / M.C. Escher scarves
Details + Trim: Dressmaker snaps / Floral-brooch shank button / Angled pocket flaps / Pieced leather / Faceted and cabochon heat-set crystals
Accessories + Footwear: Platform Mary Jane / Crushed felt hat / Leather glove
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