Louis Vuitton

Paris: East met West at Louis Vuitton’s F/W 12 show, where creative director Kim Jones sent out kimono-inspired coats and bulky intarsia sweaters that mimicked a Japanese zen garden. Citing a “dialogue between the great cities of Paris and Tokyo” as his point of reference for the season, the designer paired strong European suits with Japanese-style silk shirts in grey, green, tan and navy. Other influences came from the legendary 1970s illustrator, Antonio Lopez, and a soundtrack that played “disco Pope” Giorgio Moroder’s iconic beats. Grey felt berets, worn with a tan nubuck crocodile blouson jacket and chalk stripe grey pants, or a baby camel knit sweater with khaki military pants, were meant to evoke the spirit of Paris circa 1970, Jones said. Later, there were whole suits cut from the finest kimono silk, in charcoal or navy, matched with the super-luxe accessories typical of the French luxury house, like metal-tipped nubuck lizard derby shoes, or a crocodile portfolio. Japan’s influence was felt again in thick, roomy wool coats tied around the body, with a zig-zag pattern and “LV” monograms, and matching shawl wraps at the neck. Even with the global reach of the clothes, the collection felt refined and understated in a completely accessible way.  —Michael Fisher

Color: Camel / Grey / Mid-blue / Scarlet red / Optic white

Key Items: Belted great coats / Baseball jackets / Bulky turtleneck sweaters / Pieced suiting / Tapered pleated trousers / Silk kimono shirts / Metallic parkas / Patterned blanket coats

Materials: Silk / Camelhair / Astrakhan / Crocodile / Cashmere

Details + Trim: Self-belts / Tonal geometric intarsias / Pieced construction / Ribbed trim on blousons / Double zippers / Locks on bags covered in leather sheaths modeled on the signs of the Chinese zodiac / Utility pockets / Snaps / Croc elbow patches / Checkered taping

Accessories + Footwear: Lizard derby shoes / Crocodile portfolios  /Leather travel bags / Fur infinity scarves / Feather charm pins / Slim silk ties

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