Apr 13, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
Get more Denim insights as a WGSN subscriber
As the women’s Spring/Summer 2014 fashion week schedule moves into full swing, the Stylesight denim team rounds up the best indigo to emerge from the London shows.
Ashish Gupta once again showed his penchant for sequins delivering a collection emblazoned with shimmer and shine. The narrative of the line was one of which any party girl will relate to, jaded mornings after a late night, throwing on sweatshirts and jeans to hit the local corner store. However these out of bed looks took a slightly more polished appearence with pearlized, rainbow or leopard print sequins, A look synonymous with the label. Drawing upon his bona fide groupie base of fashion students, Ashish looked to shredded and slouchy denims, tearing up denim tees, ’90s style pant fits and shorts with exaggerated blowouts and heavy fraying.
Sister by Sibling’s women’s collection took a sweeter approach to the fities-sixties Americana theme showcased in their menswear collection. Designers Joe Bates, Cozette McCreery and Sid Bryan wanted to evolve the collection “from urban to suburban” with softer indigo shades and prim and pretty silhouettes lending a softer touch. There were also notes of the mid ’90s with stonewashed denims and sporty shapes with graphic topstitching that evoked the leisurewear infamous of the era. Standout pieces included a kimono sleeve denim mac , a popover tunic and a selection of highbrow denim knickers.
Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have come a long way in the short time since their graduate collection in 2011. The S/S 14 show marked the duo’s first full-blown runway debut, bringing with it their signature denim style that they have finely tuned and made their own. While the early-nineties grunge-luxe look was still prominent, this season saw the pair evolve this indigo style with more refined and polished silhouettes that hinted accents of the far east with Mao collars and kimono closures on jackets. Their coveted raw edged added a visual texture to each of the denims, this time taking a more subtle approach with neat brushed and fluffy wefts. A dark indigo and mid-blue palette reigned supreme, while cow print pony skins and pearlescent organzas broke up the sea of denim.
Topshop unique’s S/S 15 show was all about high summer and exotic locations. Creative Director Kate Phelan explains “We started looking at holiday photos and beautiful interior images from North Africa and Morocco” Those Moroccan references were only too apparent in the repeat geo prints and deep, saturated shades of indigo, turquoise and green throughout the show. Denim played an important role in the line-up, however, with grounding grey-cast indigos, patched and frayed color blocking and glossy rigid indigos. Sporty pop-overs and blouson jackets as well as upsized boyfriend jeans and re-fabricated truckers were standout collections items.
Fulton explored some pretty innovative denim surfaces this season: what at first appeared to be beautiful and intricate indigo prints turned out to be precisely cut appliqued layers of denim. Deep and raw indigo blues, mid-casts and pale baby shades created an innovative, 3-dimensional surface and a neo-patchwork effect. Other items included elasticised track pants, cut-out tee shirts and concept-cut dresses but the beautiful denim surfaces were definately the star of the show.
A distinctly 80’s Miami vibe infiltrated Ashley Williams’ S/S 14 runway show but clean and retro, raw indigos gave the range a clean-cut edge. Crisp, pleated denims assumed ladylike silhouettes such as mid-calf pencils and shift dresses, whilst more playful mini’s added a touch of youthful fun. A concept-cut, collarless jacket and simple denim tee kept things demure and minimal, cementing the season’s trend for pared-back, premium denim and raw edged chic.
Head over to Stylesight’s Runway Quick Look page to see the full collection and to keep up-to-date on the latest shows.
Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.