Feb 22, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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Last Friday, February 15, London opened its doors to one of the most interesting season’s to date. The F/W 13 schedule saw the addition of several key designers, including Tom Ford’s first Women’s runway, as well as Rihanna causing a stir with her debut collection for River Island. It was some of London’s more ambitious and emerging talents that delivered the most exciting denim collections this season, with a range of textured and pieced effects driving the fabric forward for F/W 13.
Portuguese design duo Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, have only a few collections under their belt (we’ve been blogging about them sinse their first collection back in F/W 11), but they have already been sought after among stylists and street style stars like Elena Perminova. For F/W 13, the pair continues to develop the shredded-edge technique that put them on the map, but for F/W 13, the pair refined the concept with raw silk fabrications. A strong grunge feeling remained core to the collection but with neater lines, tighter tailoring and more feminine silhouettes evolving their rough-luxe aesthetic. Baggy skater trousers, parkas and longline skirts channeled the 90s style, and camo was worked onto skirts and denim tees in patched indigo tones, while a few zebra prints broke up the otherwise inky blue collection.
Emerging London designer James Long has been putting out Menswear collections for over two years now, but F/W 13 marks only his second Women’s outing. His instinctive ability to get what girls want, along with his unique knits and covetable separates have demonstrated that he can easily translate his aesthetic to appeal to a different market. Expanding upon this repertoire for Fall, Long began to explore other fabrics throughout his collection including woven blanket wools and denims. The indigo-heavy outing featured a plethora of cozy silhouettes that were rich in texture and tone combining relaxed jumpers with slouchy jeans and loose pleated skirts. Allover embroideries and skewed side-seams added visual interest to loose boyfriend fits, while fused striped jackets highlighted Long’s attention to his expert level of craftsmanship.
Often one to experiment with denim on the runway, Ashish Gupta took his clean indigo color-blocked theme from last season and expanded on it for F/W. The show notes described the collection as “a visually ironic take on urban/rural workwear”, which translated into a more utility-inspired attitude for denim. Classic bib n brace dresses, flowing prairie skirts and worker pants were all re-worked into graphic, boro-inspired items. Silhouettes were oversized and tomboy; sequins and reflective tape finished the styling off in true Ashish-fashion.
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