May 30, 2019 | By Louise Squire
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Famed British chef and restaurateur Mark Hix enlisted an unlikely and incredibly expensive ally when decorating his latest hit London venture, Tramshed. Wildly polarizing artist Damien Hirst was specially commissioned to create two pieces for this cavernous new restaurant, and the results are predictably macabre. Part of Hirst’s infamous Natural History series, the literally named ‘Cock and Bull’ (2012) is a giant glass tank filled with formaldehyde, where a cockerel (a rooster to us Americans) perches proudly atop a whole Hereford cow, both of them keeping watch over guests from on high. Dine on the second floor of this tram power station turned hotspot and you’ll be treated to an up close viewing of Hirst’s other piece, ‘Beef and Chicken’ (2012), a colorful painting featuring ‘90s cartoon characters Cow and Chicken.
The rub? Tramshed serves a super-simple menu: three appetizers, plus whole roasted Wooley Park Farm free-range chicken or Mighty-marbled sirloin steak, available in 250g increments. Yup, that’s all. It’s cheeky and unsettling, yet insanely delicious. If you’d like to sample the meaty delights available at Tramshed, but would prefer to do so far, far away from the cold, dead eyes of Hirst’s work, you’re in luck: a take-out counter serves up chicken and steak salads and sandwiches, as well as lovely coffee from Caravan.
Downstairs, you’ll find the Cock ‘n’ Bull Gallery, where new work will be displayed every six weeks, in addition to a stunningly curated library filled with volumes on fashion, food, magic, and other wonderful things. Twenty books will also be showcased every six weeks, selected by well-known artists and authors. Tramshed is part restaurant, part bar, part gallery, part sideshow, and completely worth checking out if you find yourself hungry and in the Shoreditch neighborhood. xx Ashley Churchill
Photos: Courtesy of We Heart, Tramshed
32 Rivington Street, London EC2A 3LX
44 (0)20 7749 0478
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