May 07, 2018 | By Rose Garrod
The London Showrooms landed in New York last week, and the Fashion Office was on hand to view collections from the fashion capital’s brightest young stars. Now in its fourth season, the traveling showcase has grown exponentially, adding to its roster of new talent as well as to its itinerary with stops spanning from Hong Kong to Los Angeles.
(Above, clockwise) Now part of the elite guard in London, Marios Schwab was the special guest at this edition, creatively displaying his provocative lingerie-inspired dresses in the master bedroom and bathroom of the penthouse suite. James Long caught our attention last season with his nifty knits, and for spring, he pumped up the glamour with colorful beads set against a midnight network of lush yarns. One of our Ones to Watch this season, J.W.Anderson‘s collection proved to be even more impressive upon closer inspection, full of authentic craftsmanship and materials applied in a compelling futuristic fashion.
(Above, clockwise) Felicity Brown delivered one of her strongest efforts to date, balancing signature ruffled frocks with chic sportswear separates. Simone Rocha presented a delightful spring collection full of whimsy and wit in her light-as-air tulle sheaths and lace-embedded plastics. Always a Ones to Watch, Michael van der Ham enlivened his sartorial collages with candy colors and clear crystals. Newcomer Katie Eary channeled London’s street style with an eclectic mix of gilded exotic skins, brightly colored furs and flashy mirror prints.
First-timers Palmer//Harding were one of the major revelations at the London Showrooms. Centered around the button-up shirt, the tightly focused line updates the classic for men and women with simple tucks, pleats and a thoughtful attention to fit – all presented in an eye-pleasing palette of neutrals.
Accessories play a key role in London’s exuberantly styled looks, and the ready-to-wear designers presented plenty of fun accoutrements that caught our eye. (Above, clockwise) Holly Fulton expanded her print-centric line with accessories ranging from pyramid-studded cuffs to patent leather pouches. Simone Rocha paired her pretty plastic jackets with Perspex platforms. Thomas Tait collaborated with Cutler and Gross on his futuristic mirrored specs. And finally, J. JS Lee complemented an artfully minimalist collection with sandals that put a Modernist twist on the simple ankle strap.
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