Dec 20, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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While the catwalks team are running around, front of house during fashion week, the WGSN beauty team, myself and senior beauty editor Theresa Yee, have been busy behind the scenes. We’re the editors you see squeezed in between trays of foundation, an array of hairbrushes, and attempting to Instagram model’s faces when they’re trying to eat their lunch. Why? To bring you the latest London fashion week beauty trends of course. We spent over five days backstage at London Fashion Week talking to the hairstylists, make-up artists and manicurists that bring the next big beauty looks to life. Here’s a look into some of our top shows.
The Inspiration: A nod to masquerade, Pierot, clown school and Romy Schneider
The Look: Andrew Gallimore creates three make-up looks this season, inspired by the idea of a clown the morning after the night before. First up a scrubbed, natural look with fresh skin that’s just dabbed with touches of concealer. Next a blurry red lip, smudged outside the lip line as though rubbed vigorously off from the previous night’s performance. Finally the main look focuses on the eyes, with a ‘skeleton leaf’ graphic liner look created using a wet powder shadow applied with a paintbrush. Brows are elongated to match the extension of the liner which travels outwards in a negative space design. For the hair, four models sport over the top streamlined wigs cut into short, sharp bobs, whilst others stick to the wig caps, a look inspired by the idea of the upper class coming undone, or halfway through getting ready.
Lead Stylists: Andrew Gallimore for NARS Cosmetics / Kota Suizu for Bumble and bumble
Key Products: NARS Cosmetics’ Velvet Matte Foundation Stick, Soft Matte Complete Concealer, Translucent Light Reflecting Powder, Bali Single Eyeshadow, Oural Brow Gel, Power Matte Lip Pigment in Don’t Stop
The Inspiration: A soft, new-romantic vibe inspired by the beauty regime of an 80’s girl living in a bedsit borrowing her mother’s makeup
The Look: Matte is back, with Terry Barber championing the return of powder foundation after seasons of dewy glows. Skin is whitened to look milky, as though applying talcum powder to the face, whilst eyes are smudged with pink powder reminiscent of your mother’s blush. Seven girls sport a DIY black lip, painted on to look as though it’s photocopied, helping to achieve an overall aesthetic of style and individuality over perfection.
Lead Stylists: Terry Barber for MAC Cosmetics / Duffy / Marianne Newman
Key Products: MAC Cosmetics Pro Conceal & Correct Palette, Trend Forecast Fall 17 Lip in Cougar Vine, Big Bold Lash, Lip Scrub, Black Lipmix and Ebony Eye Pencil
The Inspiration: 1990s think Versace and grunge, rave scene
The Look: Duffy adds hair extensions to the head to create a solid and super clean one length before ironing hair multiple times to achieve a ‘glassy smooth’ perfect look. Over in make-up, Lynsey Alexander creats an ‘imperfect beauty’ look. Flushed, post-party skin paired with clumpy lashes, boyish brows and a stained terracotta lip. A ‘futuristic French manicure’ sees the tips of natural nails painted in Mimic and coated with a glossy top coat for a modern update on the classic
Lead Stylists: Duffy for L’Oreal Professionnel / Lynsey Alexander for Topshop Unique / Jenny Longworth for Topshop Beauty
Key Products: L’Oreal Professionnel Tecni.ART Pli, Topshop Beauty Air Cushion Skin Perfector, Glow Prime & Finish, Cream Blush in Dalliance, Contour Wand, Brow Gel, False Lash Intense Mascara, Lip Kit in Crazy Beautiful (out in March), Gel Nails in Mimic and Gel Nails Top Coat
The Inspiration: A new direction for hair / boyish beauty
The Look: Anthony Turner explains that hair takes on a new direction this season as the designer wanted to “wipe the slate clean and start over again”. There’s no darkness or eerie vibes for A/W17 instead hair looks are ‘fresh’, ‘light’, ‘pure’, angelic’ and ‘healthy’. Hair is centre-parted and then smoothed into a low ponytail at the nape of the neck. For a softer finish, Turner uses his hand to gently loosen the hair at the top of the head to achieve a fluffy halo of frizz. Beautiful skin is the focus for make-up with a new stick foundation used alongside concealers to achieve a satiny, real-skin finish. Cheeks are left bare and brows are brushed up and boyish using a combination of pencils and gels. Lashes are simply curled to complete the look
Lead Stylists: Val Garland for NARS Cosmetics / Anthony Turner for L’Oreal Professionnel
Key Products: NARS Cosmetics NARSskin Multi-Action Hydrating Toner, Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer, Restorative Night Treatment, Optimal Brightening Concentrate, Velvet Matte Foundation Stick (new for Fall 2017), Brow Perfecter, Brow Defining Cream, Oural Brow Gel, Bianca Pure Sheer SPF Lip Treatment, Instant Line & Pore Perfector, L’Oreal Professionnel Mythic Oil and Techni.ART Pli
The Inspiration: Modern Military Minimalism and going back to the designer’s Georgian roots
The Look: ‘Real skin’, ‘minimal’ and ‘healthy’ are the beauty buzzwords from Andrew Gallimore backstage at David Koma this season. Faces are pampered and preened with skincare products for a healthy real-skin look. Tinted moisturizer evens out skin tone while concealer is applied to areas where needed. The focus is on the eyes with black lines and silver accents that gives a nod to the military vibe. Over at hair, Syd Hayes creats a sleek look by straightening the hair before braiding a section on the side to create a clean braid. Wires are placed through the braid to keep the plait super straight. Two nail looks emerge with 20 models sporting a simple solid nude, while 8 models display bare fingertips with two different coloured vertical stripes on the nail, topped off with top coat.
Lead Stylists: Andrew Gallimore for NARS Cosmetics / Syd Hayes for Babyliss Pro / Ama Quashie for Christian Louboutin Beauty
Key Products: NARS Cosmetics Luminous Moisture Cream, Aqua Gel Luminous Mask, Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer, Soft Matte Complete Concealer, Light Reflecting Loose Setting Powder, Eye Paint in Black Valley & Interstellar, Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Via Veneto, Lip Gloss in Triple X, Bianca Pure Sheer SPF Lip Treatment, Oural Brow Gel, Babyliss Pro Hairdryer and Ultimate Styler Hair Straightener, Christian Louboutin Nail Lacquer in Simple Nude and Alta Perla
The Inspiration: Boyish pared-down beauty
The Look: “Simple radiant skin with bushy boy brows,” explains Lucia Pieroni of the make-up look. Tinted moisturizer is used to create a light base and highlighter added to the apples of the cheeks for a healthy glow. Brows are heightened with gels and pencils for a masculine look, while silver is dabbed over the eyelids and lashes curled. Guido gives hairstyles a boyish gesture this season. Freshly washed hair is given a tomboy quality with the front messed up by running the hands through the hair
Lead Stylists: Lucia Pieroni for NARS Cosmetics / Guido Palau for Redken
Key Products: NARSskin Luminous Moisture Cream, Total Replenishing Eye Cream, Optimal Brightening Concentrate, Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer, Radiant Creamy Concealer, Copacabana Illuminator, Copacabana Multiple, Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow (Rigel and Antares), Brow Perfector, Matte Eyeshadows (Bali, Blondie and Coconut Grove), Brow Defining Cream and Bianca Pure Sheer Lip Treatment, Redken Diamond Oil Shampoo and Control Addict 28 Hair Spray
The Inspiration: Classic girl riding through the country on horseback
The Look: Brooke Shields inspires a sophisticated make-up look, with plump, fresh skin prepped with the traditional Suqqu Gankin massage. A defined look sees eyes shaded using two gorgeous new palettes with hints of khaki and burnt orange. With brow pens used as mascara, and a sheer glimmer on the lips, it’s described as sparkly and elegant. Hair is effortlessly tousled, gently tonged in large waves and run through with fingers, finished with a matte texture, whilst nails take on a classic molten silver hue with a high shine finish.
Lead Stylists: Stephen Low for L’Oreal Professionnel / Marie Comparetto for SUQQU and Sophie Harris-Greenslade for RMK
Key Products: L’Oreal French Girl Hair Techni Art, Super Dust, RMK Classic Silver Nail Lacquer, Suqqu Designing Color Eyes in Natsusango and Kisui, Bronzed Color Blush in Bronzed Orange and Extra Glow Lipstick in Sultuo
The Inspiration: A young, wealthy whippersnapper dressed up for a night on the town
The Look: Described by make-up artist Mark Carrasquillo as the “realest girl I’ve done in a long time,” girls look as though they’ve just hopped out of the shower, with only a dab of concealer to hide any glaring imperfections, and lip balm applied backstage then wiped off just before showtime to ensure natural but moisturised lips. With no product on the brows or lashes, skin is super matte and plied with moisturiser to appear plump and youthful. Hair is swept into a low side ponytail, super slick and smooth with no parting. Inspired by the idea of a spoilt little rich girl who’s trying to fit in with her cooler mates, stylist Anthony Turner adds edge to the streamline look by pulling the ear out to break up the pony.
Lead Stylists: Mark Carrasquillo for NARS / Anthony Turner for L’Oreal Professionnel
Key Products: NARSskin Multi-Action Hydrating Toner, Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer,Total Replenishing Eye Cream, Soft Matte Complete Concealer, All Day Luminous Powder Foundation, Oural Brow Gel, Biance Pure Sheet SPF Lip Treatment, L’Oreal Professionnel Techni Art Pli, Volume Hair Mousse, Mythic Oil and Infinium.
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