Jan 17, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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Jun 20, 2013
London kick started the menswear S/S 14 calendar with its third edition of London Collections. The new fashion week showcase is dedicated to the best British-based brands in menswear. The growing schedule offers a breadth of talent, from the world’s most innovative emerging talents to global menswear brands and Savile Row Tailors. Always a hotbed for emerging denim trends, Stylesight’s denim team takes a look at the latest movements for indigo for the S/S 14 season.
Taking inspiration from the infamous all-American “West Side Story”, Sibling’s show delivered models decked out in ’50s pin-up denim with rockabilly flare and matching quiffs. The collection worked around the idea of angered youth using tribe cultures and boyish adolescence to create their New York by London street gang. The denim heavy collection had a hard-edged approach with straight-fit raw jeans and shrunken trucker jackets emblazoned with “Jet Boy” gang scrolls on the back. A few lighter notes were added with matching stonewash sets as well as a dash of indigo leopard print that nodded to the rockabilly inspiration.
Known for his luxe-sportswear approach, London menswear favorite Christopher Shannon explored his teenage clubbing memories of ’90s Liverpool for his S/S 14 collection. Denim was mixed up amongst a plethora of rainbow PVC’s, suedes and neon-infused Liberty prints (a new collaboration) that created Shannon’s own portrait of his post-rave northern club kid. A range of psychedelic zebra prints enlivened the otherwise matte black denims on offer, while a range of wet-look coatings in icy whites and greys injected a dash of the designers clinical future vision. Layering was also a key styling note throughout the collection with jackets piled on top of each other or tiered layers of jeans beneath shorts or boxers tucked into shirts.
Deconstruction and destruction were some of the terms that defined Matthew Millers collection of anti-elitist sportswear silhouettes that were sent down the runway this week. Taking classic denim items as a base for a large portion of his collection, Miller injected new materials and colours to give these jeanswear classics a new perspective for the coming season. Lustrous leathers and sateens replaced typical denims for trucker silhouettes, while frayed hems left these premium fabrics with a raw finish. a “post-industrial” edge was introduced through angular cuts, stark white and gunmetal greys, with minimal design elements like concealed pocket flaps and plackets demonstrated the designers signature stripped back aesthetic.
Nicole Fahri kept it simple for S/S 14 with honest fabrics and wardrobe staples. but this didn’t mean simple jeans or classic trucker hats, rather re-appropriated takes on these icons that would stand out above the basics. This uniqueness was achieved through beautifully executed details, technical cuts and slick fabrics. The denim jacket proved a reoccurring item with reworks in tactile bedford cords and premium suedes, while denim was used to update ’50s zip-through blouson shapes. From the opening look the outfits appeared in perfect tonal harmony with pants and jackets paired in slate, sand, crisp white and a delectable cornflower blue.
While oliver Spencer stayed true to his signature form of unstructured tailoring, the designer injected these formal silhouettes with denims urban look that brought an even more laidback approach to the summer collection. Spencer updated the collection with a range of youthful and sporty shapes like bomber jackets and slouchy jeans, while unexpected combinations saw chore coats and blazers paired with mismatched utility and formalwear seperates. Other items came messed up with bleach-splattered denims or graphic fabric-piecing in dramatic high low palettes.
LFW denim-darlings, Marques Almeida made their debut appearance for the men’s collections this season, with a small presentation of their menswear offshoot at Lulu Kennedy’s, Fashion East. Channeling the same aesthetic as their womens F/W 13 show, the collection showcased a selection of male reworks of their shredded-edge techniques that the Portuguese duo are famed for. A strong luxe-grunge aesthetic remained core to the collection with neater lines, tighter tailoring and more masculine oversized silhouettes evolving their female counterpart. Baggy skater shorts and tees nodded to ’90s style with tonal indigo camo jacquards adding a punch of pattern to the otherwise inky blue palette.
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