Jan 10, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: If Stuart Vevers’ tenure at Loewe has not garnered much of a buzz, it isn’t because he’s not making beautiful clothes. Vevers’ sophisticated work for the Spanish house has resulted in lovely, if not splashy, looks over his four years as creative director. This season, the designer focused on the notion of craft, which yielded one of his finest offerings to date. With leather as his primary material, Vevers played with stamping, laser cutting, weaving, and printing. Leather birds and flowers were pieced onto garments, as well. Unadorned suede separates kept the collection from feeling overwrought or cluttered. With all that leather, it could easily have veered in the vulgar direction, but below-the-knee hemlines and jewel necklines kept it modest and grown-up. Flap pockets and hoods suggested a military reference, but the real story here was the celebration of craft. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Hourglass / Top-heavy
Color: Olive / Burnt orange / Dark chocolate / Black / Dusty brown / Mustard / Khaki / Beige
Key Items: Below-the-knee slim skirts / Blouson jackets / Embellished leather tee / Suede trench / Suede utility top
Materials: Leather / Suede / Tulle / Fine-gauge cashmere yarns / Guipure lace / Organza
Print + Pattern: Black overlapping florals
Details + Trim: Hoods / Flap pockets / Laser cutouts / Stamping / Leather appliqués / Lace or organza panels / Weaving / High slits
Accessories + Footwear: Leather cuffs / Chunky chain bracelets / Soft satchels / Raffia totes / Sling bags / Medium-width leather belts / T-strap platform sandals / Platform ankle-strap mules
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