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Loden Dager

HIP-HOP-A-BILLY
New York: Loden Dager’s Paul Marlow showed a collection of consisting largely of trim shorts, button front shirts, and various slack bottoms that sought to connect the rebel spirits of 50s rockabilly and 90s hip hop, all embellished with touches of outlandish psychedlia. Rolled sleeves, popped collars, and low-slung, billowing trousers evoked a young Elvis on vacation, while other equally baggy trousers were shown with one leg rolled to just below the knee, a 90s hip hop affectation that has its roots in the necessities of urban cycling culture. A cranberry jumpsuit and Nike Sportswear Air Max trainers further hinted at hip hop street style, urban touches that ultimately seemed filtered through the rest of the collections preppy shorts and almost naïve 50s shirts. A compliment of paisleys further enriched the collection, riding the line between the Indo-Persian print’s preppy and psychedelic associations, while a pumpkin orange mackintosh, plaid blazer, and variety of wool cardigans and denim jackets brought satisfactory balance and ultimate success to the collection’s audacious mish mash of rebellious cultural allusions.   —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Classic tailored with hints of hooligan slouch

Color: Washed cobalt / Pumpkin / Fuchsia / Cranberry / Kelly green / Mint / Sky / Lime / Mustard

Key Items: Short-sleeve button front top / Tailored short / Mackintosh jacket / Cardigan / Jumpsuit

Materials: Poplin / Mesh / Jersey / Wool knits

Print + Pattern: Box stripe prints / Paisley / Polka dots / Stripes / Subtle plaid

Details + Trim: Athletic mesh insets / Button-closure belt loops / Zipper backs / Patch pockets

Accessories + Footwear: Mesh pocket squares / Geometric stripe belts / Patch pockets

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