May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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As the daughter of avant garde fashion legend Yohji Yamamoto, Limi Feu has an enormous legacy to live up to. In just two years under her own label, Feu is beginning to be recognized for her own work. While oversized proportions, masculine/feminine play and mannish footwear suggest that she is somewhat overwhelmed by her heritage, her own subtle nuances are beginning to shine through. A trapeze tank was cinched at the waist by a deconstructed cropped trench, giving it a peplum effect over harem pants, in an ensemble that felt original. A sleeveless jacket that had half of a pleated skirt attached at its waist was less successful — almost a pastiche of 80s looks from her father or Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo. Exaggerated dropped-waist pants and oversized pleated trousers cropped at the ankles took a graceful swing at menswear, each paired with a simple while shirt. For the finale, a parade of tent dresses worn with tough combat boots made the clearest statement of Feu’s identity as a designer, the best of the batch in shocking red.
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