Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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THE SOFTER SIDE
Paris: Without completely abandoning the tailored menswear influences that have become one of her signatures, Limi Feu incorporated feminine elements into her F/W 2011 collection. After three seasons of black and white, the pale painterly florals and heathered suitings that opened the show were pleasingly unexpected, and showed that the designer is developing her own voice (her father, Yohji Yamamoto, is tough act to follow). Reflecting her design heritage, Feu’s silhouettes were oversized and often deconstructed, but capelets, afghans, kimono sleeves and shawl collars softened her typically masculine shapes. Romantic hair styles brought more femininity to the looks, and lady-like, cap-toed flats balanced an otherwise rugged footwear assortment.
Color: Heathered grays and browns / Cream / Slate gray / Black / Navy / Bright white / Primary red / Poppy orange / Royal blue / Cobalt
Key Items: Long-john legging / Crombie cape / Cocoon outerwear / Oversized vest / Shirtdress / Floor-length overcoat / Skirt suit / Gutsy ribbed sweater / Cropped biker jacket / Afghan / Maxi skirt / Silk caftan / Poncho
Materials: Flannel / Ribbed sweater knits / Blanket fabrics / Melton wools / Moleskin / Silk satins / Velour
Prints + Patterns: Painterly florals / Sequin dot motif / Kaleidoscopic triangle print
Details + Trim: Buckled straps / Turtlenecks / Deconstructed seam details / Cord fringe / Double-breasted cuts / Patched reinforcements / Dropped shoulder seams / Funnel necks / Cap and kimono sleeves / Pant pleats / High-low hems / Raw and pinked edges / Empire waists / Asymmetry
Accessories + Footwear: Soft booties / Workboots with kiltie details / Opaque tights / Surrealist bowler hats with sculpted faces / Pieced mesh knit scarves / Cap-toed pointy mary-janes / Suspenders / Flat western boots
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