Jun 11, 2018 | By Nick Paget
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Paris: After experimenting with romantic frills last season, Limi Feu has returned to the menswear influences that she’d been toying with prior to F/W 10. While last season’s show was full of tough and tender juxtapositions, Feu’s collection for S/S 11 was boyishly cool throughout. She opened the show with new takes on suiting: tapered trousers, vest-inspired halter tops with oversized lapels, and a pantsuit with relaxed proportions were shown with bowler hats and combat boots. Next came sportier styles. Waists and hems were cinched by drawstrings and jersey was shown in layers; the pieces were so versatile that one ensemble, consisting of a jersey column dress and shrug, worked beautifully for a pregnant model. The designer also experimented with ruching; maxi dresses featured ruched empire waists and cinched drawstring shoulder straps and rows of diagonal ruching defined caftan silhouettes. Throughout it all, Feu never strayed from a black and white palette. A cropped trench coat, styled over a ball skirt, was a standout piece – the abbreviated silhouette could be worn in the place of a motorcycle jacket. Feu’s attempts at incorporating texture were less successful, and the yarn fringe that covered the surfaces of a few items was distracting. But aside from the fringe embellishment, looks were cleanly styled and confidently designed. Frizzy hair worked perfectly with the 70s/80s Japanese deconstructivist aesthetic her brilliant father (Yohji Yamamoto) helped to create, and coincided with the retro themes that have permeated each fashion week so far. Feu is still finding her voice, and this collection shows she is taking steps in the right direction.
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