Mar 27, 2019 | By Volker Ketteniss
Milan…Surrounding the runway were quotes from old black and white movies and the floor was covered in tonal grey checkerboard, perhaps suggesting a “middle of the road” frame of mind for Miuccia Prada. With an immense presence of classic film noir, the showings for S/S 10 set out to test the cliché of “men being stuck with grey suits,” as Prada suggested to journalists backstage. The tonal experimentations with grey was one of the strongest pairings thus far for Milan Fashion Week. Suits were rendered as minimal as possible, with the button stance on single- and double-breasted jackets lower than ever before, underpinned with sheer white knits that reminded us of lingerie. Of course, Prada continually challenges notions of masculinity each and every season, and this aspect drove the point home further. The concept of perforation, or “exposing a man to sensitivity and new ideas” found its way to sleeveless cardigans, outerwear, tailored jackets and even shoes! After last season’s urban warrior toughness, this collection promised men a bit more flexibility and optimism.
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